Column October 12 2018

Amino Wash Plus: The ultimate scalp-cleansing surfactant

Release on October 12, 2018

The ultimate scalp-cleansing surfactant

Normal amino acid-based surfactants are characteristically soft on the skin and highly biodegradable, but when looked at as a cleaning agent they appear to have insufficient foaming and cleaning power. In response, the Angfa Research Laboratory undertook the development of an original surfactant over a 4 year period. To ensure it would be recognized as having excellent cleaning capabilities, dozens of types of cleaning ingredients were tried and elements such as foaming, foam fineness, cleaning power, moisturizing power, hair volume, skin oil dissolution, cytotoxicity, and feel were compared. Thus was Amino Wash Plus (display name: Fatty acid (12,14) acyl aspartic acid Na liquid) developed.

Achieving the ideal foam for a cleaning agent ~The foam test~

Many amino acid-based surfactants foam weakly. For example, when they are used in men's shampoo, the feel of the shampoo is unsatisfying. However, Amino Wash Plus far exceeds the capabilities of traditional amino acid-based surfactants, succeeding in producing fine foam with body.

A new functionality is born: Selective cleaning ~Iterative skin oil solubility tests and barrier function retention tests~

When the cleaning power of a surfactant is increased, it strips the skin of the moisture it needs and actually dries it out. This reduces the barrier funtion of the skin and makes it more susceptible to external stimuli. We wanted to develop an ideal surfactant which would have enough cleaning power to remove only the excess skin oil and not dry out the skin after washing. After repeated tests of artificial skin oil solubility and measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), we achieved a surfactant with highly selective cleaning capability.

A cleaning agent which causes minimal hair damage ~Hair damage test~

Surfactants with strong cleaning power can cause damage to hair. Hair which has already been damaged by the sun or hair dye can be damaged further by a surfactant. Ageing hair has disorderly cuticles, which causes the hair to lose its luster. We observed the surfaces of hair washed with traditional surfactants and Amino Wash Plus using an ultra-high resolution scanning electron microscope (made by Japan AFI). The results confirmed that Amino Wash Plus did little damage to the surface of the hair and caused no disorder to the hair cuticles. The above experiments showed that the Amino Wash Plus surfactant is highly functional and versatile. It especially lends itself to applications in men's products, and we have used it in many of ours.

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